Checking a used car before buying it

If you are thinking of buying a used car, know that it is not an easy task. There are so many things you have to take into account. It gets even more confusing when you buy a used car for the first time. There are many points to consider with a used car, but the most important thing is that you physically check the car before making a decision.

Steps

Method 1 of 5: Checking the condition of the car

Step 1. Make sure the car is on level ground before checking it

This way you can see the tires well and check whether there is something hanging at the bottom of the car.

Step 2. Check the color of the car carefully, and look for rust spots, dents and scratches

The car must be clean so that you can check the bodywork. Look at the sides of the car from the front or the back and look for irregularities; this indicates that the car has been painted over. Feel with your fingers along the edges of the joints between the panels; if they feel rough, there are remnants of painter's tape.

Step 3. Check the trunk of the car to make sure it is in good condition

There should be no sign of rust or water seepage through holes or cracks. If the inside of the boot is worn, this indicates intensive use of the car.

Step 4. Check the condition of the tires

The tires must show even wear and match. Look at the tire surface to make sure the car's alignment is balanced. Poor alignment can be caused by worn steering/suspension components, the pothole further down the road, or a damaged chassis.

Step 5. Never buy a car with a damaged chassis

Check the piece connecting the front bumpers and holding the top of the radiator. This can be welded or bolted. Check the bolts at the top of the bumpers on the inside of the hood. Scratches indicate a replaced or aligned bumper (after an accident).

Step 6. When safely elevated, inspect the underside of the car and check the exhaust system and landing gear for rust

Look for black spots on the exhaust system as this could indicate leaks. At this point you can also check whether the chassis or bodywork is damaged.

Check the exhaust pipe with your finger. If there is greasy filth in it, it means the car has a major and potentially expensive problem. Start the car. White vapor (if the weather isn't cold) is also a bad sign

Method 2 of 5: Checking under the hood

Step 1. Look under the hood for signs of dents, damage and rust

These can all indicate poor maintenance or damage to the car. Any bumper on the inside from where the hood connects must show a VIN (Vehicle Identification Number) number. The location where the VIN is applied depends on the manufacturer.

Step 2. Check the hoses and straps

They should not show any cracks. The radiator hoses should not be soft.

Step 3. Check if the motor is leaking or rusting

Look for dark brown oil stains on the engine block. This shows that there is a leak in the head gasket, which could indicate a potentially expensive repair in the future. Check the brake fluid and make sure there are no leaks in the reservoir. The straps should appear new (meaning they have no cracks or dry spots). Old belts can break and if you do not know how to replace them, you will have to pay 100-500 euros for its repair, depending on the belt.

Step 4. Remove the screw cap from the oil filter

If there is foam residue on the inside, it indicates a leaking head gasket. Then forget the car.

Step 5. Pull out the gearbox oil level check dipstick; the liquid should be pink or red

In an old car, it may be dark, but it shouldn't look or smell burnt. The level should be full (check with the engine on).

Step 6. Check the timing belt

This is the most important belt in the engine and also the most expensive to replace. If the car is equipped with a steel timing chain, you should not worry about this. The service life of a timing chain is 100,000-160,000 kilometers or more, depending on the manufacturer.

Method 3 of 5: Checking the inside of the car

Step 1. Sit in the car

Check the seats and upholstery of the car for tears, stains and other damage.

Step 2. Check if the car's air conditioning is working properly by turning it on

Cars with good air conditioning are from 1993 or later and have a sticker on the AC capacitor.

Step 3. Check the mileage on the odometer

This is an important part, because the distance traveled shows the age of the car. A normal driver drives between 16,000 and 25,000 kilometers per year. However, age depends on many factors. Remember that cars age with time and with distance travelled. A 10-year-old car with low mileage is not necessarily a good thing.

Step 4. Check if the car has a computer

Take a cheap computer with you to check the car for errors. In a car shop you will find cheap equipment from around 120 euros. Cheaper equipment can only find a limited number of faults.

• With a car with a computer, you should pay attention to the warnings that you see when you start the car.

  

Step 5. Check the lights and all normal functions of the car while stationary

These are all the sensors for parking, the rear view camera, radio, CD player, music system, etc.

Method 4 of 5: Take the car for a test drive

Step 1. Test drive the car before making a decision

This is perhaps the best way to get to know the car's condition. Therefore, as a buyer, you should take a test drive before making a decision.

Step 2. Make sure to check the car's brakes by pushing them in hard enough and slowing down quickly, but make sure you don't slip

Do this at 50 kilometers per hour on a street with no traffic. The brake pedal should not vibrate and the brakes should not scream or make strange noises. Brakes that pulsate indicate that rotors need to be changed and new pads are needed. The car should not swing; this can be caused by a bad brake caliper or worn steering gear.

Step 3. Check if the car hesitates around 120 km/h

A slight hesitation during a short speed interval can be due to the mechanical parts of the front-wheel drive which cost between 350 and 1300 euros. This may involve connections/guides, etc. This phenomenon may be associated with uneven wear on the front wheels.

Step 4. Check for noises, hesitation or rattling when making a 90 degree turn

Do this at low speed. This in turn can indicate wear of the connections in the front-wheel drive.

Method 5 of 5: Making a decision

Step 1. Check the car service book

This will give you information about the car's performance, repairs and problems. Ideally, the current owner has a summary of the maintenance the car has had and is willing to share this information with you. Some cars have no service history because they have been serviced at home. This is not a problem as long as you can prove that the car has been properly maintained. It sometimes happens that people want to sell a car after an accident or negative experiences.

Step 2. Bring someone with you who has knowledge of cars

It is a good idea to take a trusted friend who has a good knowledge of cars to check the car together. If you don't have a friend who knows anything about cars, you can pay a mechanic to do an inspection for $60-90. Make sure that this mechanic knows his trade well so that he can give you valuable information.

Step 3. Never pay the price that is being asked

A used car is an item that can be negotiated. You should not feel obliged to pay the price that is being asked. The dealer bought this car at a low price and sells it for much more than what he paid for it, knowing that the price tag will be reduced. Depending on the quality of the vehicle, you can make an offer. Make sure it's a reasonable offer. If the trader asks $15,000, don't bid $10,000. If the asking price is more than $10,000, try to get about $1,500 less. You can check your borrowing capacity in advance with your bank or a credit facility. Then you know how much you can spend on a car. Try to buy a car that costs less than what you can afford. Most people want to buy a car that is more expensive than what they can afford, but remember that the car will require maintenance in the future.

Use the weaker features of the car to your advantage. If the car isn't the color you want, tell the dealer, "I like the car, but I don't like the green color; that's the only thing stopping me from buying the car." The dealer will see that you want the car and will find a way to get you behind the wheel

Step 4. Take pen, paper and phone with you if you want to buy from a private person

While checking the car, write down any parts that are damaged or need to be changed. Remind the salesperson that you will take the vehicle to your personal mechanic so they know the list is not for their mechanic. After you have compiled a list of the maintenance the car needs, you can contact stores that sell auto parts to check the price and the availability of the replacement parts. Once you know how much it will cost to repair the car, you can make an informed decision about what to pay for the car and increase the likelihood of the seller lowering its price.

Be careful when doing this as some sellers may find this rude and decide not to sell the car to you

Tips

• Use consumer reports to check the overall reputation of the car. Stop paying thousands more for a great reputation. The condition of the car is more important than the nameplate.
• Use an independent source to verify the wholesale and retail value of your target vehicle. Is the seller's price close or is there an inexplicable difference?
• Buying a car from a dealer with a service center is the best way to be satisfied for a long time. If you buy a car from a dealer without a service center, have the car checked by your mechanic!
• If the car requires a lot of repairs, use this to negotiate the price.
• Certified cars cost a little more, but come with a warranty.
• Find the same car you want to buy, with the same mileage. If the prices are similar, you can use this to push the price down a bit.
• Compare the condition of the inside of the car with the odometer. A car with 25,000 kilometers on the odometer does not have a board seat that looks like it has been put through a meat grinder. Significant wear on the board seat and low mileage may indicate odometer fraud.
• Never check a car while it is raining. The rain hides paint problems and damage caused by an accident. It also camouflages suspicious noises.
• Watch out for unidentified bad smells. It can be very difficult and expensive to rid a used car of strange smells.
• The history report or service book is inexpensive and contains valuable information. You don't have to check this in detail! The most important thing is to check whether accidents have occurred and whether the odometer is correct. If you check a car at a car dealer, ask them for the history report (Carfax). Make sure they give you the last page too.

Warnings

• With the new emissions standards, it's not a bad idea to have the car's emissions tested before you buy it. It can be very expensive to repair the emissions control system and any car that fails the technical check in this area must be repaired before it can be used. Cars that also show severe wear on internal engine parts such as piston rings or valve seats may fail an emissions test. With a smog test you can check whether the car drives well and has no major mechanical defects that will cause you problems later. This test can easily be combined with an inspection of the vehicle by a qualified mechanic.
• If, after this preliminary check, you would like to proceed with the purchase of the car, please seek the professional opinion of a qualified mechanic. This is definitely a must if you are buying a used car for the first time or if you know little about cars. The current owner of the car should have no objections, otherwise he certainly has something to hide. In that case, it is best that you look elsewhere for a used car.
• If the sale seems too good to be true, it most likely is.